爲頭髮一擲千金 奧朗德不是一個人
When Parisians learned last week that President François Hollande paid his hairdresser more than $10,000 a month to cut his hair, a howl was heard from Montmartre to the Marais. Not since President Bill Clinton shut down two runways in 1993 for a $200 trim aboard Air Force One have the tresses of a head of state been so widely discussed. But as men’s upkeep has gone the way of female grooming — Botox, facials and waxing, you know, down there — so, too, has the high price of a haircut.
上週，巴黎人得知弗朗索瓦·奧朗德(François Hollande)總統每月付給理髮師1萬美元用於理髮，從蒙馬特高地到瑪萊區，到處迴盪着人們的驚叫聲。1993年，比爾·克林頓(Bill Clinton)總統曾經關閉兩條機場跑道，以便以200美元的價錢在空軍一號上修剪髮型，從那以後，一國首腦的頭髮還沒有這樣廣泛地被討論過呢。但是隨着男人的保養愈來愈向女人看齊——肉毒桿菌瘦臉、美容和去毛（下面的毛，你懂的）——高價理髮也不例外。
Ask Tim Rogers, a stylist at Sally Hershberger’s downtown New York studio, who charges a minimum of $400, and as much as $800, for a men’s haircut these days. He regularly flies to the Hamptons by helicopter to attend to a coterie of hedge fund managers and investment bankers. He has visited a celebrity’s home at 10 p.m. He, too, has an array of clients who go to the salon, among them the tennis champion Roger Federer and John Kennedy Schlossberg, the grandson of the president.
去問問蒂姆·羅傑斯(Tim Rogers)吧，他是莎莉·赫什伯格(Sally Hershberger)紐約下城店的髮型師，近來他爲男士修剪髮型收取的最低價是400美元，最高可達800美元。他經常坐直升機飛往漢普頓，爲對衝基金經理或投資銀行家服務。他也曾晚上10點爲某位名人登門服務。還有一大羣客戶定期去他的沙龍，其中包括網球冠軍羅傑·費德勒(Roger Federer)，以及肯尼迪總統的外孫約翰·肯尼迪·施洛斯伯格(John Kennedy Schlossberg)。
“I maintain that men’s prices should be the same as women’s,” Mr. Rogers said last week in an interview from his home in Connecticut.
“我堅持男人的收費應該和女人相同，”上週羅傑斯在康涅狄格家中接受採訪時說。
Men, he said, are often more demanding than women. “The requirement is consistency,” he said. “You have to be available anytime, anywhere.” Even if that means being on call 24 hours a day. “There is never a bad time for them,” he said of his clients. “And everything has a price.”
他說，男人的要求經常比女人還多。“他們的要求是持續性，”他說。“你得隨時隨地都能爲他們服務。”哪怕這意味着一天24小時隨叫隨到。“對於他們來說，永遠沒有不合適的時間，”他說起自己的客戶們。“這一切都是要花錢的。”
The star stylist Frédéric Fekkai raised eyebrows in the late 1990s when he started charging women $300 for a cut. By the mid-2000s, he was supplanted by Ms. Hershberger, famous for the $600 shaggy mop that defined Meg Ryan’s carefree style at the time. But it is only in recent years that the cost for a man’s haircut has rivaled its feminine counterpart.
20世紀90年代，明星髮型師弗裏德里克·菲凱(Frédéric Fekkai)爲女性理髮時，一次收取300美元費用，曾經令人大爲驚訝。到2005年左右，他的風頭被赫什伯格所取代。她最出名的是爲梅格·瑞安(Meg Ryan)修剪了一個蓬亂的蘑菇頭，打造了她當時那種無憂無慮的形象，價格是600美元。但是直到近年來，男人打理髮型的價格纔開始和女人們並駕齊驅。
Now, in New York, it’s not uncommon for a haircut at a top salon to cost $300. And that doesn’t include highlights, straightening or silken glosses. Martial Vivot, a former Parisian who founded Salon Pour Hommes in 2008, charges $320 for one of his signature cuts. Recently, he said, he saw a client bagging groceries at the Whole Foods in Columbus Circle. “I felt like, ‘Oh, wow,’” he said. “I wondered if he could afford it.”
如今在紐約，去頂級美髮沙龍理髮花上300美元，並不稀奇。這還不包括挑染、燙直或潤絲亮澤。來自巴黎的馬夏·維沃(Martial Vivot)在2008年創立了“男仕沙龍”(Salon Pour Hommes)。他的招牌剪髮樣式之一要價320美元。馬夏說，最近看到他一個顧客在哥倫布圓環的全食超市給人打包貨品。“我的感覺就像是：哇！”他說。“他怎麼能負擔得了我們的服務？”
Lakshman Achuthan, the chief operations officer of the Economic Cycle Research Institute, has his short hair groomed by April Barton, famous for the choppy locks of downtown rock ’n’ rollers. He pays slightly less than her regular $300 rate, he said, because he visits every four weeks or so. “I’m as far away from Hollande as can be,” he said. “I don’t consider myself a flashy spender.”
拉克什曼·阿楚坦是經濟週期研究所的首席營運官，他的理髮師是艾普莉爾·巴頓(April Barton)，能剪一手市中心搖滾樂手般的多層次髮型。阿楚坦付的錢比巴頓常規的300美元價格略低，因爲他每四個星期左右就會去理髮，他說。“我和奧朗德完全不一樣，”他說，“我不認爲自己是一個浮誇的大款。”
He has been a client since the 1990s and said he seeks Ms. Barton’s advice as much as the snip of her scissors. “Ten years ago she said, ‘You are losing your hair,’” he explained one recent afternoon, noting that there is much less now to cut. “She said, ‘As long as you keep it clean and don’t gain any weight, you’ll be fine.’”
阿楚坦說他從90年代開始就是巴頓的客人了，而他對於巴頓的建議和對她的理髮技術一樣看重。“10年前她對我說：‘你開始掉頭髮了。’”阿楚坦在最近一天的下午解釋道，同時指出自己現在的頭髮少多了。“她說：‘只要你保持頭髮清潔、別發福，就沒事。’”
Mr. Achuthan is a frequent guest on television, which means he must always be camera-ready. “I think it would be easy for someone who has short hair to do a buzz cut,” he said. “But like every New Yorker, we are jammed up and don’t want to have something go wrong.”
阿楚坦常上電視，這意味着他必須時時保持能上鏡的狀態。“我想，留短髮的人推個寸頭應該很簡單吧，”他說。“但我跟每個紐約客一樣，每天忙亂不堪，不想出任何差錯。”
Ms. Barton said that, while there is a boom in high-end barbershops, men with longer or unruly hair often fare better with more instruction. “Most barbers don’t seem to be artful stylists,” she said. She has schooled investment bankers in how to use root concealer to cover gray. Last week, she had a client who paid $670 for a cut, straightening and toning to replenish color. And that didn’t include products and a hefty tip. “The type of guys who pay this are technology entrepreneurs,” she said.
巴頓說，雖然高端理髮廳正在興起，不過蓄長髮或有着一頭亂髮的男士，往往還是需要一些指導纔會更好。“多數理髮師似乎都不是嫺熟的造型師，”她說。她曾經教導一位投資銀行家用髮根遮瑕筆掩飾灰髮。上週她有位客人花了670美元做了個造型，把頭髮拉直、髮色染得更豐潤。這還沒算上產品以及慷慨的小費。“會這麼花錢的人都是些科技界的企業家。”她說。
Mr. Rogers, of Sally Hershberger, said that Mr. Federer, who sees a number of stylists worldwide, has a relaxed attitude compared with other clients. “It’s much more about what Mirka wants,” he said, referring to Mr. Federer’s wife. “He doesn’t want his hair to fall in his eyes.” Mr. Federer, he said, “loves his hair. And I love him.”
莎莉‧赫什伯格髮廊的羅傑斯說，在世界各地都有造型師的費德勒比其他客戶更隨和些。“更多是看米爾卡(Mirka)的喜好，”他指的是費德勒的太太。“他只要頭髮不會掃進眼睛裏就好。”羅傑斯說，費德勒“很喜歡自己的頭髮。我很喜歡他。”
But isn’t $10,000 a month for a hairdresser, to put it bluntly, a little ridiculous? For decades, scores of Goldman Sachs bankers have had their hair cut by Salvatore Anzalone, an Italian barber with a salon in the lobby of the nearby Conrad Hotel. He charges $30 for a dry cut. (A shampoo is $7 extra.)
不過我們還是直說吧：給一位理髮師每月1萬美元的薪水，是不是太荒唐了？數十年來，許多在高盛(Goldman Sachs)工作的銀行業人士都讓薩爾瓦多‧安薩隆(Salvatore Anzalone)剪頭髮，這位意大利籍理髮師在鄰近高盛總部的康萊德酒店(Conrad Hotel)大堂裏有間髮廊，幹剪一次收費30美元。（洗頭加收7美元。）
Not so, Mr. Vivot said. “France is the capital of fashion, and he is the president of the country,” he said of Mr. Hollande. The hairdresser is on call, like a doctor. “Maybe if he was in Korea, he’d get a flattop,” he said.
這並不荒唐，維沃表示。“法國是全球時尚之都，他又是那個國家的總統，”他談到奧郎德時這麼說。奧朗德的理髮師就像醫生一樣要隨時待命。“也許，如果他是韓國總統的話，理個平頭就得了。”他說。
Robin Capili, a stylist at Sally Hershberger who trained at a barbershop (and who charges a relatively more affordable $200), said he’d never spend $10,000 a month. “I’d invest in property,” he said. “A condo maybe.”
羅賓‧卡比利(Robin Capili)是另一位在莎莉‧赫什伯格工作的髮型師，曾在一個理髮店學藝（他收費200美元，相對便宜些）。他說自己絕對不會爲理髮花上每月1萬美元。“我會拿去投資房地產，”他說。“買間公寓什麼的。”
One of his clients, Drew O’Connell, who lives in Dallas, said that $800 would be a reach, too. But after he tallied up the flight to New York every six weeks (about $400) and other costs, he laughed. “I don’t know,” he said. “I just don’t want to think about it.”
住在達拉斯的德魯‧歐康奈爾(Drew O'Connell)是卡比利的顧客。他也認爲，800美元就算是高的了。不過在計算了每六週飛往紐約一次的成本（大約400美元）與其他開銷之後，他笑了。“我不知道啦，”他說。“我不願去想它。”
At one point, Ms. Barton said that she would have liked to style the Republican presidential nominee, Donald J. Trump. But now, she said, “I don’t want to see him.”
巴頓說她曾想過給共和黨總統候選人特朗普做造型。但現在她說：“我不想見到他。”
Mr. Trump devoted a section of his book “Trump: How to Get Rich” to “The Art of the Hair,” where he laid out his hair-care philosophy. If he goes bald, he wrote, he would get a toupee. “I’ve never said my hair is my strongest point,” he said.
特朗普的書《特朗普：如何致富》中有一個章節叫作“頭髮的藝術”。其中，他解釋了自己的護髮哲學。他寫道，如果他有天禿頂了，他會弄一個假髮。“我從來沒說過頭髮是我的強項。”他說。
It is unlikely he’ll be visiting Ms. Barton anytime soon.
未來他也不太可能會光顧巴頓的生意了。
