澳網公開賽上的時裝秀 嚇倒對手的水果色

Fashion attention may be focused on Paris, where the European men’s wear collections have drawn to a close and the couture began Sunday evening with Versace’s parade of gym-inspired glamazons. But in a different hemisphere, an equally eye-catching show has been taking place, which is worth pausing to consider for a moment.

巴黎的歐洲男裝系列已經接近尾聲，週日（1月24日）晚上，範思哲(Versace)以健身爲靈感的魅力時裝秀拉開了高級定製的大幕，眼下時尚界的焦點可能都集中在那裏。但是在另一個半球，一場同樣引人矚目的活動正在進行，它值得我們停下來思考一下。

I am speaking, of course, of the Australian Open, the tennis tournament that kicks off the Grand Slam quartet. If the ready-to-wear calendar is divided into four seasons — spring/summer, pre-fall, autumn/winter and cruise — the Slam tournaments fulfill almost the same function for sports wear (i.e., the stuff you wear to play sports; as opposed to sportswear, the system of separates attributed to the American fashion industry). Which means the Australian Open is also the opening style salvo of the year. It sets the tone for season one.

我說的當然是澳大利亞網球公開賽(Australian Open)，它是四大滿貫賽事的第一站。如果成衣日曆分爲春夏、秋初、秋冬和度假四季，那麼四大滿貫也能把運動服裝日曆分成類似的四季（運動服裝指的是運動時穿的衣服，而不是運動休閒服，據說這種區分來自美國時裝業）。也就是說，澳網也是展示開年時裝風格的大舞臺。它奠定了第一季的基調。

Though this might seem irrelevant to those with their eyes trained on the couture ateliers in France, what elite athletes wear on the court has a trickle-down effect on that increasingly important clothing genre known as “athleisure,” which has an impact on what everyone wears.

雖然對於那些專門研究法國高級定製工作室的人士來說，這也許無關緊要，但是頂級運動員們在運動場上穿的服裝對“運動休閒服”(athleisure)這個越來越重要的服裝類別有着涓滴效應，它影響到我們每個人的服裝。

The sports stuff gets put into the melting pot along with the haute stuff and the street stuff, and out comes the stuff of your wardrobe. Which means that, just as what happens on the runways over the next three days of couture matters, the trends being unveiled at the Australian Open in Melbourne matter. And they are?

運動服裝、高級定製服裝和街頭服飾加入大熔爐，融合出來的就是你的衣櫥。也就是說，墨爾本澳網展現的潮流和未來三天高級定製秀臺上的潮流一樣重要。那麼，澳網的潮流是什麼呢？

Color. Also, geometric prints and some sheer. But mostly: color. The kind of saturated, sunset color most often associated with tropical drinks, as opposed to tennis.

色彩。還有幾何印花和輕薄質材。不過，最重要的是色彩，那種像日落的飽和色，通常與熱帶飲料而不是網球聯繫在一起。

Serena Williams kicked the whole thing off with her neon-yellow Nike crop top and skirt, not necessarily the best look for her (she resembled a bionic parakeet), but one that gave new dimension to what is shaping up to be the shade of month, also modeled by Jelena Jankovic (a hibiscus yellow), Novak Djokovic (a sunshine-y Uniqlo shirt) and Marin Cilic (lemon Li-Ning polo).

小威廉姆斯(Serena Williams)開場穿的是霓虹黃耐克(Nike)露臍上衣和短裙，這不一定是她最好看的造型（看起來像一隻仿生長尾鸚鵡），但它奠定了本月色彩的基調，葉連娜·揚科維奇（Jelena Jankovic，木槿花黃色）、諾瓦克·喬科維奇（Novak Djokovic，陽光色優衣庫汗衫）和馬林·西里奇（Marin Cilic，檸檬黃李寧馬球衫）紛紛效仿。

Then there was Maria Sharapova’s peach-melba Nike halter dress with sheer mesh insert in back; Kei Nishikori’s Uniqlo tangerine dream; Caroline Wozniacki’s sunset-toned Stella McCartney for Adidas; Ana Ivanovic’s cherry/rose/coral graphic Bauhaus-inspired Adidas; and Agnieszka Radwanska’s fluoro pink Lotto number.

然後，瑪麗亞·莎拉波娃(Maria Sharapova)穿了一件桃紅色耐克吊帶連衣裙，後背是透明網眼；錦織圭穿的是優衣庫橘色運動裝；卡洛琳·沃茲尼亞奇(Caroline Wozniacki)穿的是斯特拉·麥卡特尼(Stella McCartney)爲阿迪達斯(Adidas)設計的日落色運動裝；安娜·伊萬諾維奇(Ana Ivanovic)穿的是阿迪達斯以包豪斯學院(Bauhaus)爲靈感的櫻桃色/玫瑰色/珊瑚色運動裝；阿格涅茲卡·拉德萬斯卡(Agnieszka Radwanska)穿的是熒光粉Lotto連衣裙。

Hot pink also showed up on Timea Bacsinszky and Carla Suárez Navarro. As it happens, Ms. Radwanska is playing Ms. Navarro in the quarterfinals on Tuesday, which could give new meaning to the idea of a “match,” so it will be interesting to see if one of them opts for a different shade.

玫紅色也出現在蒂梅婭·巴欽斯基(Timea Bacsinszky)和卡拉·蘇亞雷斯·納瓦羅(Carla Suárez Navarro)身上。週二（1月26日），拉德萬斯卡和納瓦羅將在四分之一決賽上對決——這將賦予match（既有“比賽”的意思，也有“搭配”的意思）這個詞新的含義——看看她們倆是否有人會換一種顏色還蠻有意思的。

As to why the fruity palette, well, it could have something to do with beachy Australian inspirations; an effort to celebrate color before getting locked into the all-white situation at Wimbledon; the desire to start the year with energy; or, as The Age, a Melbourne newspaper, posited, “attempting to psych-out their competitors.”

至於爲什麼他們都選擇水果色，呃，可能與海灘衆多的澳大利亞有關；也可能是爲了在陷入溫布爾登全白色的環境之前慶祝繽紛的色彩；也可能是爲了充滿活力地開始新的一年；又或者像墨爾本報紙《The Age》說的，“爲了嚇倒對手”。

Whatever the reason, however, the upside of the trend was demonstrated by Stanislas Wawrinka, with his two-tone Tequila Sunrise of a matching shirt and shorts combo, fire opal orange melting into yellow fading back into orange. It left last year’s nerd-chic look in the shade. We’ll toast to that.

不過，不管是因爲什麼原因，這種潮流的優勢在斯坦尼斯拉斯·瓦林卡(Stanislas Wawrinka)身上得以體現，他身穿龍舌蘭日出雞尾酒(Tequila Sunrise)樣的兩色汗衫和短褲套裝，火蛋白石橙色漸變成黃色又融入下面的橙色。這比去年的書呆子風造型多好了。我們要舉杯慶祝一下。

And we’ll see if any of it shows up on the catwalks.

讓我們看看其中一些色彩會不會出現在秀臺上。